Gem Profile 11:
Namibian Demantoid Garnet
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Demantoid
garnet is a lot like vodka—identified absolutely (pun intended) with Russia,
although both come from other places. Hence
making a market in non-Russian varieties of either is a daunting task that takes
considerable prowess and perseverance. In
the case of demantoid, Russia has been synonymous with the green andradite since
its discovery in the Ural Mountains in 1868 and its adoption shortly thereafter
by Tiffany’s as on of its favorite accent stones.
Thanks to Tiffany’s, demantoid seems to have functioned as the rich
man’s peridot during the heyday of its production in the Victorian era.
Once mining in
Russia ceased around 1920, demantoid took on a stubborn mystique of its own that
has lasted among connoisseurs and collectors to this very day.
It is to green garnet what Kashmir is to sapphire, and Burma is to
ruby—the supreme origin point. But
the mystique of Russian andradites possess a signature inclusion—curved sprays
of actinolite resembling a “horsetail”—considered an indispensable
identifying characteristics of this gem. Indeed,
the size and formation of the horsetail can significantly affect the host
stone’s value. And it is an
aesthetic demerit to be without one.
Maybe
this is why demantoids from other countries have never fared well.
In 1991, the year Russia resumed limited mining of demantoid garnet,
German dealers exhibiting in Tucson introduced andradites from Mali, and
republic in western Africa, with much fanfare.
But their campaign quickly hit a sour note when buyers found the new
breed too pale in tone, too yellow-brown in color and, worst of all, entirely
lacking in horsetail inclusions. If
these stones had at least contained horsetails, this talking point might have
made up for their other failings. The
Germans repeated their mistake, in 1998 with material from Namibia, South
Africa’s neighbor to the north
Nevertheless, what
would happen if horsetail-free demantoids that compared favorably with Russian
goods in color came on the market? Would
they suffer the rejection that material from Italy, Arizona, and Mali did?
Or would jewelers starved for pretty green garnets welcome the newcomer?
Namibian garnet is not
new by any stretch. There is a
specimen dated 1936 in the British Museum. While it is not new, Namibian demantoid garnet is new now
that hundred of miners, working alone and in small teams, are pulling rough out
from the country’s west-central barrens.
These diggers who use hand tools and brute strength to scratch gems from
outcroppings that dot a 100-kilometer stretch several hundred kilometers to the
northwest of Windhoek, the country’s capita.
There is no heavy machinery or mechanization it is purely
pick-and-shovel, bucket-and-sack operations.
For the most part, Namibian demantod is a
daylight gem. Run-of-the-mill goods are plagued with a strong iron caused
color shift towards brown in incandescent light that makes them as unappealing
as their equally afflicted Mali counterparts.
Like any other breeds of andradite, Namibia’s have a
cautionary hardness of 6.5. Most
are small, usually under ½ carat, although Johnston has cut may stones over 1
carat and few between 3 and 4 carats, and a whopper near 10 carats.
Depending on size, color, and weakness of color shift expect to pay $100-$200
per carat for melee and anywhere from $200-$800 per carat for stones 1 carat and
above. A few that invites
comparison to fine Russian stones fetch as high as $1,00 per carat.
But andradites that superb and rate probably won’t make it past one
day.