Gem Profile 6:
Mandarin Garnet
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Great Balls of Fire:

It is early 1992 in Namibia's
capital city of Windhoek (vindt-hook) and an influential German gem dealer has
just been tipped off to a major find of superb orange spessartine garnet in the
north near the border of Angola. This may not be earth-shaking news to
most dealers, but to German ones who spend much of their life scouting for hot
new gem prospects, the tidbit is seismic in significance. After all, we're
not talking rust-red here, but a fireball-orange that is, as they say, to die
for! This gem material has come to be known as
MANDARIN GARNET!
Mandarin Garnet has grown in popularity, but not without some
major competition. Fire opal, found in Mexico, has been used as a less
expensive substitute to Mandarin Garnet. In sizes up to 10 carats,
Mandarin Garnet can cost between $200 and $1,500 per carat, while similar sized
fire opal can cost between $40 to $150.
But to compare the gemstones on cost alone would be an
injustice to the superior characteristics of Mandarin Garnet. The most
obvious difference is the color. At its best, fire opal possess a color
resembling Sunkist orange. Mandarin Garnet has a brilliant display of
light, liking its color to "great balls of fire". Mandarin garnet is also
much more scarce than fire opal. Mandarin Garnet also contains a much
greater hardness (7.5 for garnet versus 5.5-6.0 for opal), better durability
(garnet is tough and opal is brittle), and higher brilliance (Mandarin Garnet's
refractive index is 1.79 to 1.81 versus 1.44 to 1.46 for opal.
Indeed, the only drawbacks
to Mandarin Garnet are the sometimes milky inclusions and black manganese oxide
specks that, when plentiful, can inhibit the brilliance and color of the stones.
Otherwise, the gems have a lustrous, uniform color that makes them standouts.
Although stones up to 55 carats have been cut, sizes tend to
be between 1/2 and 5 carats. Because the main sources of cut Mandarin
Garnet have been Israel and Germany, jewelers can expect individual stones to be
well cut and suites to be well matched in terms of color and clarity. The
fact that Mandarin Garnet boasts uniform color should prove one of the most
enduring of its many assets.