Gem
Profile 20: Rubellite
Tourmaline:
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Tourmaline, one of October’s birthstones, occurs in a host of colors. In fact, it’s said that there isn’t a color that can’t be found in tourmaline. As for what’s most popular, red is one of the most coveted and has been for centuries. Most colors of tourmaline have their own variety of name, and red tourmaline is called rubellite.
Name origin:
While some varieties get their name
from a specific locality or are named after a famous gemologist, rubellite
acquired its name from its color: The Latin word rubell(us) means “reddish”.
Locality:
Historically, Sri Lanka is probably the
best known source for tourmaline. In fact, it’s where tourmaline got it’s
name. The Sinhalese word turmali means “mixed or unidentified parcel of
stones.” And Sri Lanka produces a lot of tourmalines. With a few exceptions,
however, Sri Lanka is not a major source for the red variety.
On the same side of the world, Burma (now known as Myanmar) isn’t known for rubellite either, but it does get an honorable mention. In 1777, a Burmese red tourmaline was reportedly presented to Russia’s Catherine the Great (1729-1796) by Sweden’s Gustavus III (1746-1792). Unfortunately, the rubellite got more respect than was gemologically appropriate, being labeled a “large ruby”.
Brazil, Nigeria, and Afghanistan are the most important sources for rubellite. Southern California, while prolific in pink, has only minimal production of what can be classified as rubellite, typically containing a brownish overtone.
Color:
Rubellite color actually is not as
restricted to pure red as one might expect. In fact, it includes quite a range
of reds, pinks, and purples. And depending upon the direction of the cutting,
this color can shift from a purplish to a reddish or pinkish color in the same
gem. (Tourmalines are notoriously directional in color. Its strong pleochroism
leads cutters on a wild goose chase for the best color while retaining the most
weight.)
Unlike ruby, which has to have at least 50% red, rubellite must have just enough red to prevent it from being called a pink tourmaline. “It really has to be pink to be called pink,” says Gabriel Mattice, gem expert at Pala International, Fallbrook, Calif. “Otherwise, it can be called rubellite.” And it usually is. The rubellite range can include reddish-pinks (including a cranberry, somewhat orangey, purplish-pinkish-red) to an almost pyrope (dark brownish) red. The majority of the rubellite in the market is fuchsia color (a saturated vivid reddish-purple-pink), which happens to be the most desirable at the moment. Like red diamond, rubellite is never found in what would be called ruby red.
Although Afghanistan produces some cranberry and dark purplish color rubellites, stones from this locality are usually heated to create the intense vivid fuchsia tones of the unheated Nigerian material. Nigeria produces some cranberry color, as well as magenta, deep purplish-red rubellites. Madagascar rubellites are most often dark and brownish.
Clarity:
Typically, rubellites are highly
included. Long tubular inclusions are common in Brazilian and Afghanistan
material, confirming GIA’s colored-stone grading classification of rubellite
as Type III, a gem that is almost always highly included. Emerald is the only
other type III gemstone.
That said, it’s not hard to find an eye-clean rubellite. Thanks to the Nigerian find, eye-clean material is readily available. Afghanistan fuchsia is more included than Nigerian, with the Brazilian rubellite befitting the Type III classification. “It’s just one of Mother Nature’s tradeoffs-beautiful color, but highly included,” says Mattice.
Enhancement:
Much
of the rubellite in the market can be heated or irradiated (or both) to improve
the color. Brazilian material is said to be heated, while Afghanistan material
reportedly is irradiated. Nigerian material is mostly labeled as un-enhanced. If
you’re concerned about color origin, be selective about your suppliers. You
also may encounter clarity enhancement in rubellite (i.e. fillers in fractures).
Prices:
According to the Guide, fine to
extra-fine-quality 5ct to 10ct gems are priced between $250 and $600 per carat.
Gems in this price range should be fairly eye-clean. You can expect to pay less
for material that has nice color but is more included. Gems with known origin
are preferred, since color enhancements such are irradiation and heat are
undetectable.
Care and cleaning:
Tourmaline has an unusual attraction
for dust, caused by its pyro-electric capabilities-that is, it stores an
electrical charge when heated. If rubellite is kept in a showcase that’s hot
during the day but cools off at night, it definitely will attract dust.
Since the hardness of a tourmaline is 7 to 7.5, and dust typically has a hardness of 7, you should wash off the gem with soapy water to remove the dust. Wiping dry dust across the gem could dull the polish. Make certain your gem has cooled before rinsing. Tourmaline has a low tolerance for thermal shock and will crack, especially at the junction of two different colors.
JCK
January 2004
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