In a glittering tribute to November’s warm-hued birthstone, one of the most extraordinary examples of citrine craftsmanship is now captivating visitors at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. The "Cartier London Citrine and Diamond Tiara" — a geometric masterpiece created in 1937 for the coronation of King George VI — embodies both the opulence of the Art Deco era and the inventive spirit of its time.
Commissioned by Cartier London, the tiara was designed as a showpiece of modern glamor, marrying architectural precision with radiant color. Its centerpiece is an impressive 62.35-carat, emerald-cut citrine, glowing like liquid sunlight and framed by old- and baguette-cut diamonds. Rows of calibrated baguette-cut citrines sweep elegantly along its gold and platinum frame, catching light with every turn. True to Cartier’s ingenuity, the tiara’s central element can be detached and worn as a clip-brooch, offering versatility in an age when adaptability was as fashionable as luxury itself.
Though citrine was considered a more affordable alternative to gemstones, such as emerald and topaz, during the 1930s, Cartier’s design elevated it to new heights. Its honeyed tones reflected both the optimism of the Art Deco movement and the understated glamour of the late interwar years. Vogue at the time praised such citrine jewels for their “golden brilliance and modern poise,” proof that elegance need not depend on rarity alone. Today, the Cartier London Citrine and Diamond Tiara continues to turn heads as part of the V&A’s permanent jewelry collection.
Named for the French word citron, meaning lemon, citrine is a golden-to-orange variety of quartz that radiates the warmth of late autumn. Its cheerful tones range from pale yellow to deep amber, often compared to the hues of honey or Madeira wine. The gem owes its color to trace amounts of iron within its crystal structure — a delicate chemical interplay that transforms otherwise colorless quartz into nature’s embodiment of sunlight.
Citrine’s durability, ranking 7 on the Mohs scale, makes it ideal for everyday wear and large statement jewelry pieces. Most gem-quality material comes from Brazil, particularly the states of Minas Gerais and Rio Grande do Sul, though deposits are also found in Bolivia, Spain, Madagascar, Russia and the United States.
Citrine is a relative newcomer to the official birthstone list. The National Association of Jewelers added it in 1952 as an alternative to topaz.
Credit: Conceptual rendering of the Cartier London Citrine and Diamond Tiara by The Jeweler Blog using ChatGPT and DALL·E 3.