A remarkable Victorian-era jewel with royal Irish roots and a museum-worthy emerald has resurfaced at Hancocks London, offering collectors a rare glimpse into the artistry, ingenuity and grandeur of 19th-century jewelry design.
Known as the Inchiquin Emerald, the historic piece centers on a richly saturated 5.67-carat Colombian emerald long associated with the O’Brien dynasty, the Barons of Inchiquin — a noble Irish family whose lineage traces directly back to Brian Boru, the legendary 11th-century High King of Ireland.
What makes the jewel especially captivating is not only the exceptional emerald itself, but also the clever Victorian engineering that allows the piece to transform from a pendant into a bangle. During the Victorian era, jewelers prized versatility and innovation, often creating multi-purpose treasures that could be adapted for daytime wear, formal evening events or changing fashions. Hidden clasps, detachable fittings and ingenious mechanisms became hallmarks of elite jewelry workshops of the late 1800s.
Dating to circa 1890, the Inchiquin Emerald exemplifies that tradition beautifully. The octagonal step-cut emerald is secured in yellow gold claws and surrounded by a glittering arrangement of 12 old mine-cut diamonds. A second border of eight larger old European-cut diamonds, accented with delicate diamond points, adds even more brilliance. In total, the jewel carries approximately 10.50 carats of antique diamonds mounted in silver and gold.
The reverse features a fixed loop that allows the centerpiece to be worn as a pendant, while a specially crafted bangle fitting made of three parallel gold wires converts the piece into an elegant bracelet complete with box clasp and safety chain.
Its provenance is equally impressive. The jewel was presented in 1896 to Lady Ethel Jane Foster upon her marriage to Lucius William O’Brien, who later became the 15th Baron Inchiquin. The emerald remained in the family for generations and was specifically referenced in Lady Inchiquin’s 1939 will as her “large emerald and diamond bracelet.”
Now, more than a century later, the piece has emerged once again — and gemologists are just as captivated as historians.
The Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) awarded the emerald a coveted appendix letter describing it as an “Exceptional Emerald,” a distinction reserved for only the rarest and finest gemstones. According to the SSEF report, the Colombian emerald displays an outstanding combination of size, vivid green color and fine clarity. Even more remarkable, the stone shows no indications of clarity enhancement.
Guy Burton, managing director of Hancocks London, described the piece as belonging to “an exceptionally small group of named heritage jewels available today.”
Credits: Images courtesy of Hancocks London.